My Easter Tuesday Journey

Easter Tuesday I took the opportunity to get out of the house and replenish the Sacred Oils for the house.  You'll remember that on Holy Thursday morning, Pope Francis blessed the Oils (the Oil of Catechumen, the Oil of the Sick, and the Sacred Chrism) that will be used in the celebration of the Sacraments in the Diocese of Rome throughout the coming year.

Cardinal O'Brien had asked me to replenish our oil stocks (and I needed to replenish my own Oil of the Sick).  Since the Lateran Basilica is the Cathedral of the City of Rome (not St. Peter's as many mistakenly believe), I needed to get to the Cathedral of the city to get the new supply of oils.  SO... 4:30pm on Easter Tuesday I headed out toward the Lateran - a 5 kilometer walk.  No problem... needed some exercise!

Someone here shared with me a phone app that has maps without needing to be connected to the internet to work - don't as me how it works, but it does.  So, trying to retrace my steps from my journey to the Colosseum on Friday night, I used the app as little as possible and, after a long walk, arrived at the Basilica of St. John at the Lateran.

As has pretty much become the "new norm" around here - the Basilica is surrounded by barricades requiring everyone to pass through metal detectors before entering the church.  As I said before, it's OK with me - I'm happy that the police of the City of Rome (who man the security stations) are keeping us safe.

I walked into the Basilica and found the "man with the golden keys on his lapel" who would be able to help me refill the oil stocks.  He told me to wait a minute - while he went to get the key to the side altar where the oils are kept.  When he returned, we entered the side chapel and he took the stock from me and, cleaning each one out, put in new cotton and refilled them each with the newly blessed Sacred Oil.  (For those who don't know - putting cotton in the bottom of each oil stock is the way that we keep the oil from spilling everywhere.)

When he was finished I took some time in the Basilica to walk around and to say Evening Prayer.  Here are a bunch of photos I took in the Basilica.

From ETWN.com - the Churches of Rome: "Beneath the triumphal arch in the middle of the transept we admire the beautiful Gothic papal altar, which contains a wooden altar where the earliest Popes, from St. Peter to St. Sylvester, supposedly celebrated Mass, and silver busts with remains of the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul."  Inside the altar itself is said to be a piece of a wooden table that St. Peter used to celebrate Mass during his time in Rome.

On the right is the CATHEDRA - or bishop's chair - for the Pope as the Bishop of Rome.  

The importance of the Eucharist is clearly evident by the altar of the Blessed Sacrament, which is located towards the extreme left of the crossing. It was built by Pope Clement VIII in honor of the Jubilee Year of 1600, using four colossal columns of golden bronze which measure seven meters high.  (I managed to cut them off in the photo - you can only see the very edge of two of them on the left - but the photo on the right shows them from a distance.)  The columns are dated back to the Roman era and they are the only visible remains left of Constantine’s Basilica. Underneath the baldachin, there is a table which (according to a beautiful legend) was used for the celebration of the Lord’s Last Supper.  You can see the image of the Last Supper - behind it is the wood of the table.

 The Holy Door at St. John Lateran (above)

Then I started my journey back home.  First, though - since I was right there - I decided to go across the street to the Holy Stairs.  Tradition says that these are the very stairs that Jesus used to walk up to Pilate in the Praetorium.  Get more information about them here.  You can see that, even here, there are military security guards stationed.  They are working very hard to keep everyone safe.

I was determined that I was not going to use the map-app - I need to learn the city - so I started back by a different route hoping to find the way toward St. Peter's. I got back to the Colosseum and, rather than going around it and continuing on, I headed up the hill (toward, I thought, the church of St. Peter in Chains - which I didn't ever find - although my instinct was right).  Instead I eventually found myself  on top of a hill - giving me a BEAUTIFUL view of St. Peter's Basilica - a welcome sight, since it gave me the direction I needed to go.

Turns out that the building to my right (which I didn't photograph) is the residence for the President of Italy.  I found a set of stairs and walked down - headed the general direction of St. Peter's when, much to my surprise, I found myself here... a LONG way off from where I had planned to be...

The journey continued and I found myself here... again - you figure out what ancient Roman building this is - today it is lesser known name as the Church of All Saints.

From here I had a very good idea of the route back home... so started down those ancient, winding streets of Rome.  Fortunately I found myself here - the place that some of the seminarians consider the BEST gelato in town.  Well, being Easter week and after such a long walk, I had to indulge.  Many of you know how I like chocolate...

Easter Monday

I know that the celebration of Easter is so great that it cannot be contained in one day - thus the week-long Octave of Easter (ending on Divine Mercy Sunday), but I never realized how BIG Easter Monday is here in Rome.  It seems that everything is closed today (except the restaurants of course) so that people can continue the Easter celebration with their families.

So I headed over to the Square where, today, the Holy Father makes a special appearance from the window of the Papal Apartment to give a short address and pray the 12noon Regina Caeli (this is video just taken from today's prayer).  Security was VERY tight - everyone who even approached the square had to open their bags and everyone was "wanded" to search for metal.  I'm GLAD there is so much security - to protect everyone who gathers for these holy events.

During the Holy Father's brief remarks, he remembered in a special way the victims of yesterday's terrible attack against Christians in Pakistan, asking us all to remember them in our prayers.  He also had us repeat, three times, Christ our hope is Risen!.  He is Risen indeed!

Happy Easter!

Some photos I took there in St. Peter's Square...

Easter in Rome 2016

Easter celebrations begin, not on Easter Sunday morning - but with the Solemn Easter Vigil - divided into 4 parts: the Blessing of the New Fire; the (extended) Liturgy of the Word; the Celebration of Baptism & Confirmation; the Liturgy of the Eucharist.

Rather than attending the Vigil with the Holy Father, Cardinal O'Brien and I decided to go up to the NAC once again for their Vigil.  Because it is a seminary and not a parish the NAC had no baptisms (since I HOPE all the seminarians are already baptized).  But we knew it would be a wonderful celebration - I think I've mentioned before how wonderful the choir is at the NAC - truly talented young men who obviously put in a lot of rehearsal time and who sing to the glory and honor of God.  Cardinal Raymond Burke was the celebrant for the Solemn Vigil.  I've found the NAC Facebook page that has posted some photos of the Vigil, including this one of Cardinal O'Brien with me right behind him...

We were not disappointed - the liturgy was BEAUTIFUL!  Although it was certainly strange for me - not presiding...  A few weeks before I left Gettysburg, Bishop Malesic (of Greensburg) called me to congratulate me on my new assignment.  He mentioned how strange it will be - after having been a pastor - to not preside at Mass on Sunday, not preach regularly, not have much pastoral work... strange for those of us who have been pastors.  Yet he told me to remember that this right now is my "work" - a different kind of ministry and priestly service - not that of a pastor, but as one who works to build up the Church in the Holy Land through the work and charity of the Knights of the Holy Sepulcher.  He is right - and I continue to remind myself of this fact.

Following the Vigil Mass the rector, Fr. Peter Harmon, invited us for a celebratory drink and snacks - which were certainly welcomed following the Paschal Fast.

Sunday morning we changed our clocks for daylight savings time (yes, I know you did it a few weeks ago in the U.S. - but Europe was just this past weekend).  Fortunately we had nothing until 12noon - Mass at the Casa Santa Maria - the house (near Trevi Fountain) where many of the U.S. priests studying in Rome live.

Before heading over to the "Casa" - I took some time to observe ALL the people streaming toward St. Peter's Square for the Easter Sunday Mass with the Holy Father and the Urbi et Orbi address.  I took the opportunity to walk over toward St. Peter's so that I could see the crowd and take some photos:

Then we walked over to the "Casa" for the celebration of Mass for Easter Sunday.  Another nice celebration - but again - strange for me.  Here in Rome, the seminarians & priests have vacation all this week (as the schools all close for the Easter Holy Days) - meaning that most of the many men who live here were off traveling somewhere for the Easter break.  So the Cardinal presided at Mass with only about 8 priest and 4 Dominican Sisters.  The Cardinal had asked me to preach - an honor - and they said I did I nice job - I'm sure something different from what they are used to...

Following Mass we had a wonderful Pranzo (lunch) there at the Casa - then home, a NAP - and dinner with Deacon Brian Kuchinski - one of our Harrisburg seminarians - who stayed around during the Easter break to get some work done.

A beautiful Easter Sunday here in Rome.

Good Friday in Rome

I took a little break for some prayer and quiet as we prepared for today's great Solemnity.  So let me catch you up on what I've been up to since Thursday night.

Friday we had nothing until the Liturgy of the Lord's Passion (with the Holy Father inside St. Peter's Basilica) at 5pm.  So I had the day to pray, to reflect, to rest...

Then at 3:30 I needed to be at the Blessed Sacrament Chapel inside St. Peter's in order to receive instructions to assist with the distribution of Holy Communion during the Liturgy.  We arrived and went to the chapel - where we sat in silent prayer before the Blessed Sacrament in reserve.

[You thought you had seen a big ciborium before?  NO WAY.  These were HUGE!  I searched for an internet photo of them - but no luck.  They were huge, golden bowls with lids and a very nice, but simple, veil covering them.  Remember that the veil is the sign that the hosts within the ciborium have been consecrated and truly are the Body and Blood of Christ.]

As we were in the Blessed Sacrament chapel, many of the Cardinals and Bishops began to arrive - as they had been invited to come spend some time in prayer before the Blessed Sacrament prior to the Liturgy.  And they did come - including Cardinal I'Brien.  Naturally, as they gathered, we were ushered out... to prepare and get vested.  They provided each of us with a surplis and red stole - so that we all matched.  As Divine Providence would have it - we ended up in front of the altar of Pope Saint John Paul II - he keeps "showing up" - he's a big part of this journey (see the blog entry from my first day in Rome).

I DID take this photo

We were then all led up to the front left (behind the Papal Altar) where we were seated for the Liturgy.  The Pope came in and, as every priest does at the beginning of the Good Friday Liturgy, he lay prostrate on the floor - the sign of humility and adoration.

Not my photo - found it on the web...

The liturgy begins - and the readings proclaimed.  It was a BEAUTIFUL chanting of the Gospel (all in Latin) - but the tune with which I am familiar - and in fact I've used it in various parishes.  Here's an example...

Following the Gospel - as per custom - the preacher of the Papal Household, Capuchin Father Raniero Cantalamessa preached the homily.  Then the Universal Prayers of all universal prayers - literally praying for everyone!  It was interesting, normally we pray for Francis our Pope - but of course here - it was the Pope presiding, so his words were slightly altered: "...in your unending kindness protect me your unworthy servant, that the Christian people, entrusted to my pastoral care, may grow in merit by reason of their faith..."

The Solemn Adoration of the Cross followed - the Cross was carried up the LONG center aisle of St. Peter's by the deacon - flanked by two candles - stoping several times to proclaim "Behold the wood of the cross..."  Then when it reached the front, the Holy Father removed his chasuble and stepped forward to adore the cross.

Again, not my photo...

As this began we were led from our seats back to the Blessed Sacrament chapel to retrieve the Holy Eucharist for distribution to the people.  As the adoration of the cross ended we processed 2x2 up the center aisle, stood in a semi-circle around the confessio and then were led to our places to distribute the Eucharist to the faithful.  When we were finished, we returned once more to the Blessed Sacrament chapel with the Eucharist - relinquished our stole and surplus, and were held in place until the conclusion of the Liturgy (rather than returning to our places - too much traffic congestion).

I got back home just in time to meet Deacon John Kuchinski (one of our Harrisburg seminarians studying here in Rome - who, by the way, will be ordained a priest on June 4 - so keep him in prayer) to go to the Colosseum for the Stations of the Cross.  To use Fr. Kyle Sahd's expression, "it was a complete and utter disaster!"

This was the mob scene trying to get in to the Colosseum

We walked from St. Peter's to the Colosseum.  As we passed the Victor Emmanuel monument and walked down the main street leading to the Colosseum, we noticed that the street was blocked ahead by Italian Police and security.  Not a surprise - there's been a lot of extra security this week (especially following events in Brussels this past week).  However, the crowd came to a complete stop as we all tried to funnel in - one-by-one - through the security checkpoint.  

We were at a standstill for a while - then the crowd seemed to surge forward - then a standstill, then another surge... and this cycle repeated.  The stations began - surprisingly there was no speaker system allowing us to hear what was going on - so people talked and mingled as we waiting for the next surge toward the security checkpoint.  Some around us were following the Stations via Twitter - so we knew... 3rd station; 6th station; 9th station...  Finally we were approaching the security point- thinking we might finally be allowed into the area surrounding the Colosseum - only to be told by the officers, "The event is over - this is now an exit.  Turn around!"

Oh well, we tried - we can say we were there...

Mass of the Lord's Supper

Thursday evening we went to the NAC for the Mass of the Lord's Supper.  Cardinal O'Brien had been asked to preside at this Mass - so he sent me up ahead to ensure that everything was ready.  Indeed it was - so I spent some time in prayer with the Holy Father's homily from earlier in the day (that I had found online and printed out).  Love and mercy - both received (by ourselves and by those to whom we minister) and manifested through our priesthood.  But that mercy really is an expression of the immensity of God's love for us - each one of us.  What a special task we have as priests to both experience that mercy AND share that mercy.  But you can read the homily for yourself.

And Cardinal O'Brien picked up on the same theme at the Mass of the Lord's Supper - love - the manifestation of that love in the Most Holy Eucharist - poured out for us.  It was a wonderful Mass - the choir is SO beautiful there at the NAC.  The liturgy well done.  The procession at the end of Mass went to a chapel downstairs - the entire congregation processing through the halls of the seminary until we reached the chapel.  I must admit it was strange - it's the first time in 16+ years that I have not presided at the Holy Thursday Mass - weird - but at the same it was wonderful to be able to sit back and pray.

Several other thoughts on the Mass:
- as we chanted the Gloria - the bells pealed above us - beautiful sounding, real bells!  They lingered into the Collect.
- Also, that's where the use of the organ stopped - from the Gloria on, the organ was used only to play a few notes for the choir to know the first few notes of the chants for Mass.
- During the Universal Prayers we prayed for persecuted Christians who are unable to celebrate the Mass or even these Sacred Days because of their difficult situations.  I began thinking of those who live in fear, those who are oppressed, those in prison, those who have been kidnapped... so many who cannot practice their Faith because of oppression and persecution.
- And I reflect that this journey, which has brought me to Rome and the Knights of the Holy Sepulcher, kind of began with my great spiritual closeness to our persecuted brothers and sisters...  and it kind of came full-circle at Mass tonight for me.

Following Mass, there was a meal for the priests - again that WONDERFUL hospitality the men there at the NAC share and express.  I'm so grateful to them all.  Oh, I forgot to add this photo I took - the view of St. Peter's from the NAC.  Beautiful...

Before heading back to the house, the Cardinal and I made a visit to the Blessed Sacrament in repost there at the NAC - the Cardinal's silhouette is seen...  It's something that has been a great source of strength and blessing - that the Cardinal is a great man of prayer - beginning every day kneeling before the Blessed Sacrament in our chapel - just as he is here...

After dinner I came back to the apartment and changed clothes so that I could go out on the traditional visit to 7 churches on Holy Thursday.  Well, earlier in the day Rome Reports had put something out which mentioned Santa Maria della'Orto and "the machine" - a huge display of 200+ candles surrounding the Blessed Sacrament in repose.  Well, I decided I was going to find it - so set out toward Trastevere - figuring I'd stop at every other church along the way and make a visit.  And it was very fruitful!

First church was the Chiesa Santo Spirito in Sassia which is very near to our offices for the Holy Sepulcher.  In fact I've been in this church before - last time I led a pilgrimage the group had some free time around the Vatican - and I went into this church to pray for a bit (and rest out of the heat of the summer).  Never did I think I'd be back again on Holy Thursday.

Next church I found was...  Well, I can't find it again on the maps - and I've spent about 2 hours trying - but here's the photo...  There were a LOT of people here in this church praying... how nice to see that the tradition survives!

Next, Chiesa S Salvatore de la Corte S Maria della Luce.

The 4th church was Santa Maria en Trastevere.  Again there were a lot of people here in this church as well.

Finally I made it to my goal: Santa Maria della Orto - and "the machine" that Rome Reports had talked about and that guided my entire journey.  And it was PACKED with people - apparently they had all seen the same report I had...

Next to last was San Crosogono - which happens to be run by the Trinitarians... (once again, the Woods' in Gettysburg - I had never seen them before you introduced me to them).

Lastly - on my way back home - I found went to last church - and it is actually the closest to home - and I see it every day - Santa Anna... just inside the gate.

Then I was back home - and ready for bed after a long day and long walk through the Trastevere section of Rome.

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The Chrism Mass - Holy Thursday morning

Today is Holy Thursday - the day on which the Church recalls the institution of the priesthood and of the Most Holy Eucharist.  Each has its own celebration.

Now in most diocese, like our own Diocese of Harrisburg, the Chrism Mass is celebrated sometime during Holy Week - which the preference of the Church is that the Chrism Mass be celebrated on Holy Thursday morning.  But, in most places it is not practical - or sometimes even safe - to gather all the priests together on Thursday morning and then rush them back to their parishes to begin the Sacred Triduum.

However here in Rome, with so many priests from around the world - it is entirely possible to do as the ritual books intend - that on the morning of the day on which we commemorate the beginning of the priesthood of Jesus Christ, all the priests of the Diocese of Rome (and those living and visiting here) gather with their Bishop - the Pope being first and foremost the Bishop of Rome - to renew their priestly promises in his presence - and to bless and consecrate the Sacred Oils (of the sick, of catechumens, and the Chrism) that will be used in the Sacraments of the Church during the coming year.

So, this morning I walked with the Cardinal to Saint Peter's Basilica to concelebrate the Chrism Mass.

While the Cardinal went off to vest with the other cardinals, I went once again to the Braccio di Costantino - where all the priests vested last weekend for the Bishop ordination.  I again entered through he Bronze door - where the Swiss Guard and other security officials were checking our credentials - our celebret (the document from our Bishop that tells people I really am a priest and can celebrate the Mass - which is what celebret means - "let him celebrate").  Once inside I vested for Mass and, since I walked over with the Cardinal, immediately joined the pre-procession of the priests to their place inside St. Peter's Basilica.

Once more I walked down the center aisle of the Basilica, which normally is blocked off so that tourists don't walk on it.  We approached the Papal Altar and the columns of Bernini, and I was ushered to the left side of the Papal Altar - and there sat down to prepare for the Mass.  I had already made a Holy Hour this morning - praying over the Renewal of Priestly Promises which is part of the ritual for the Chrism Mass.  But I once again reviewed them in the worship aid (the the Vatican provides for every Papal liturgy).

As I was reflecting, I looked at the altar - and remembered that it stands directly overtop the tomb of St. Peter--and I thought, here I am, sitting overtop the tomb of St. Peter... with Peter - the Pope- the Vicar of Christ and visible sign of the Unity and Universality of the Church - and I am surrounded by 100's if not 1000's of priests and bishops from every country and continent - gathered here with "Peter" to renew our promises and celebrate the Holy Mass.

AN ASIDE: I don't know if I've said it in previous posts or not - but these past two weeks have been VERY emotional for me.  If you do not know me well, I'm a pretty emotional guy - and I'm OK with that.  I may sometimes give an air of not having feelings, but they are often very close to the surface and it is in my own life of prayer that those feelings and emotions are brought to God.  Well, these two weeks have been VERY emotional for me.  When I boarded the plane in New York on March 9, I sat down and just started bawling,  I couldn't stop... reflecting on all that I was leaving (family, friends, home, brother priests, all I knew and was familiar with) to begin a new job, a new ministry in a new country.  I have no doubts that it IS God who brought me here, but none-the-less, it was (is) hard to leave everyone and everything...

OK, that said, with all the raw emotion that has been so close to the surface these past weeks, today was no different as I sat in St. Peter's reflecting and praying.  And it came back several times during the Mass (keep reading...)

The procession begins (and I noted that the Holy Father was using, not his usual crozier - but the crozier of Pope Saint John Paul II), Mass begins, readings, homily (which I'll have to download and read later since it was in Italian) - then the renewal of promises by the priests.  Here is where emotion hit once again: I was reflecting on the readings during the homily - and heard again the words of both the Prophet Isaiah and Luke (in the Gospel) - "the Spirit of the Lord has anointed me..."  This is the deepest reality of the Sacred Priesthood: it is not mine, it is Jesus Christ's - HE is the One who has anointed me with the Sacred Chrism, configured me to serve as an alter-Christus (another Christ), to be his minister on behalf of God's people, nourishing and reconciling them in the Sacraments.  Oh my, what God has done in my life!

The Renewal of Priestly Promises is always moving... The Bishop (Pope Francis) said: "My beloved sons, on the anniversary of that day when Christ our Lord conferred His priesthood on His apostles and on us, are you resolved to renew in the presence of your Bishop and God's holy people, the promises you once made?

"Are you resolved to more united with the Lord Jesus and more closely conformed to Him, denying yourselves and confirming those promises about sacred duties towards Christ's Church with, prompted by love of Him, you willingly and joyfully pledged on the day of your priestly ordination?

"Are you resolved to be faithful stewards of the mysteries of God in the Holy Eucharist and the other liturgical rites and to discharge faithfully the sacred office of teaching, following Christ the Head and Shepherd, not seeking any gain, but moved only by zeal for souls?"

I AM - the priests respond to each question.  I AM.  I am resolved - and this yearly renewal of promises helps every priest resolve once more: to serve God, not myself; to faithfully teach what the Church teaches; to minister to God's holy people with a zeal for souls, and to remember the love, joy and willingness we felt on the day of our ordinations (which this year is 20 years ago...).

Then the Holy Father addresses the people of God: "..."pray for your priests..."

I have been asking so many of you to pray for me as I begin this new ministry of service to the Church - the larger Church and most especially the people of the Holy Land.  AND YOU HAVE BEEN PRAYING!  THANK YOU!  As I said above, it's been an emotional time for me - yet knowing the many prayers you are offering for me has been a source of GREAT strength and encouragement.  Please know that as you pray for me, I am also praying for you...  Daily.  Each day, as I pray my rosary, I remember the people of every parish in which I have ever served, asking God to shower His blessings upon you.  As I wrote in previous posts, I visited the Basilica of St. Andrew and the relics of St. Francis Xavier - and when I find something of St. Joseph, St. Francis of Assisi, St. Jude and St. Margaret Mary (for Sacred Heart, Lewistown), I'll remember you in those places as well.

The Pope breathes on the Sacred Chrism - sign of the breathe of the Holy Spirit

There's another reflection I have on today's Mass.  At the conclusion there is always a Marian Hymn - in this moment, the Ave, Regina Caelorum.  As that was sung today, the Holy Father went before the image of Mary at the altar and prayed - and at the conclusion he lovingly and tenderly reached out and touched the image of Mary - then made the sign of the cross.  What a gesture of devotion and love for Mary our Mother.  It speaks to his interior love for Mary.  I was moved...

Then the Holy Father kissed the altar - just as he had at the beginning of Mass - and again I reflected on something - this is no quick and meaningless gesture - there is a deliberate, loving reverence (kiss) of the altar.  This is not something that the rubrics simply direct him to do - but it is another sign and witness to his own interior faith and love for God and Jesus Christ and the Divine mysteries celebrated on that altar - once again recalling that it lies directly above the tomb of St. Peter - the Rock on which Jesus Himself built the Holy Catholic Church.

Sorry for so LONG a post today - but I wanted to share all that I was thinking and praying about as I was joined with the Holy Father, Pope Francis, for today's Chrism Mass - the Mass of the Oils.